Aigialeia, in the northwestern Peloponnese, is among Greece’s most distinctive wine-growing regions. Set against the rugged terrain of the Panachaiko mountains, the area’s high elevations, northern exposure, steep, sloping vineyards and proximity to the Corinthian Gulf help moderate high temperatures, creating a growing environment unlike anything else in the Peloponnese. It is here that Michalis Kanakaris founded his eponymous winery in 1979, focusing on indigenous varieties Roditis, Sideritis and Mavro Kalavrytino grown on Aigialeia’s sandy, red/white clay soils. Today, Kanakaris is run by the third generation of Michalis’ family, with brothers Stefanos and Michalis taking over the reins in 2009.

Capturing a sense of place is at the core of Kanakaris’ winemaking ethos. Stefanos and Michalis work closely with like-minded growers, farming 55 hectares of vines planted between 450 and 1150 metres above sea level. These vineyards, dotted with olive groves and citrus trees, are situated on either side of the valleys and gorges of the five rivers of the Peloponnese, which flow down from the mountains to the Corinthian Gulf. While maintaining their grandfather's original focus on Roditis, Sideritis and Mavro Kalavrytino, the brothers have also added Malagouzia, Moschofilero and Agiorgitiko to their remit, alongside the international varieties Merlot and Syrah. All Kanakaris’ fruit is hand-harvested and vinified in their recently renovated modern winery, equipped with a range of stainless-steel tanks to capture the aromatics of Greece’s indigenous varieties and Aigialeia’s vineyards.

NOTOS (Greek for ‘South’) references Kanakaris’ Peloponnese homeland in the south of the country. These approachable, expressive wines are made from indigenous Greek varieties, as well as Merlot, grown on the slopes of Aigialeia. The NOTOS Roditis hails from vineyards planted between 450 and 700 meters above sea level, overlooking the Corinthian Gulf on northern-facing slopes. Roditis is the most widely used variety in Aigialeia, accounting for 80% of vineyard plantings, creating fresh, crisp white wines brimming with citrus and tropical fruits. Merlot has found an unexpected second home in this mountainous region. Blended with 40% Mavroudi and aged in stainless steel, it offers a structured, juicy red with velvet tannins and notes of red flowers and berries. Kanakaris also make a Retsina in the NOTOS range. A style of wine unique to Greece, Retsina has been made for over 2,000 years and nods to the ancient winemaking techniques of sealing amphorae with pine resin. Today, it is made by co-fermenting a small amount of pine resin with Roditis to create a fresh, aromatic white with a lightly resinous texture.

The Roditis grapes were harvested by hand and carefully selected in the vineyards, then transported in small crates. The fruit was destemmed and gently crushed before fermentation took place at low temperatures not exceeding 15°C in stainless steel tanks. The wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation and there was no oak ageing, to further preserve the aromatics of this indigenous variety.

This modern and light white wine has delicate aromas of lemon peel and exotic fruits. The palate is fresh and crisp, brimming with aromas of citrus, green apple and honeysuckle.

10³ is Kanakaris’ exploration of Aigialeia’s highest vineyards, many planted over 1,000 metres above sea level (10 to the power of three being 1,000). The Malagouszia is made from a clone local to the slopes of Aigialeia, which gives a palate of tropical fruits, herbs and citrus. It presents a distinct point of difference from the clones of northern and southern Greece, the former being strongly terpenic in character, while the latter is more botanical. Conversely, the Agiorgitiko hails from carefully selected Nemea vineyards in the foothills of Mount Koutsi. Here, the soil is comprised of calcareous clay and sand, lending itself to deeply flavoured fruit. This is one of the few Kanakaris wines aged in oak, with third or second-fill barrels used to help soften Agiorgitiko’s natural tannins over six months, before bottling.